Hi Carolyn! I just edited the post to include 2 that I love. I have a question. I want to paint over my painted cabinets, will chalk paint work, and have you had any problems with wear; like around the drawer pulls? Yes, it will. I actually did this years ago. And, no, it actually held up very well. Here is another post I did as an update 4 years later. Fantastic post! I have been following you and Chrissy for so long……. I needed this brush up.
Thank you! Thank you for this post, Nancy!!! Very helpful! It helped to clear up my wax questions. I will not fear going wax-free. I laughed out loud when I read that you have a collection of waxes. How sad is that? Hope you are enjoying the nice weather and can paint outside now!
Oh, hahaha! I love your idea of using it on small pieces to use it up though. Might have to do the same. SO happy the weather has finally gotten nice…and staying nice! Yes to moving it outside! Hi Nancy, what did you think about the Polyvine sealer. You said that you had ordered it and were looking forward to using it that afternoon but I never heard further. Its the only sealer I used these days. Suzanne Australia. Hi Suzanne! Yes, I have used it but only on a small piece.
I usually try out new finishes on small pieces before moving to something larger. I actually mentioned it and linked it in this post , you might have missed it. Hi Nancy, thanks for your quick reply. I did miss it. Best wishes. Hi Nancy, First let me say I love your blog…. I do have a question for you….. Just wondering. Happy thrifting and maybe I will run into you one day as I live in the same area.
Thank you!!! Aw, thank you so much, Glenda! I am so, so happy you enjoy the blog. That is so exciting! You would have to remove the wax first by sanding or with something like mineral spirits. Just getting started with chalk paint and the only place I can work on projects is my basement. I plan on selling pieces, so is using wax out? None of those are strong at all. And to your question about wax, I occasionally will use wax but mostly on something like a mirror frame, picture frame, small item etc, not furniture.
For example, wax will need to be touched up somewhat over the years. Most people buying furniture will not realize this. Not only that, if someone who purchases such a piece ever wants to repaint it, the wax will have to be removed or painted over with more chalk style paint first. Just a safer bet to go poly if you are selling your pieces! Hi Nancy, Thanks for the great tips.
I have some furniture that I plan on chalk painting. I am going to take your advise on using a top cop instead of waxing. How many coats would I need to apply?
Thanks in advance : Dina. And then of course the primer. A lot of your information regarding is incorrect. The wax takes longer to cure, I have been told 10 days up to But you can still use the piece and even put stuff on it. Hi Jami, Thank you for your comment. Chalk painting with wax not just chalk paint alone takes 30 days to cure.
Some sources say the durability for soft wax is 4 to 6 weeks even. I have my paint store tint my primer the color I want. It self levels with no brush marks. It has a super smooth look and feel. Seal with a top coat. Every piece of furniture and my cabinets are done this way.. No chips or water rings. Works great for me. I do all the proper prep work with this method.
I do sand to give the primer something to grip to and clean with deglosser. Interesting article, I have refinished literally dozens of different pieces in a variety of ways.
Like many professional refinished I have my favorite methods… Chalk has its place, I have always made my own chalk paint, it works beautifully with a high quality latex and is never a mess, I never protect with wax, polyacrylic diamond finish only, wax is used as a last topcoat to highlight detail only. Latex paint on furniture is great, however on furniture getting any kind of use it does need protection, again, water based polyacrylic, it will not stand up to long term wear and tear without… Just my two cents.
Everyone has their favorite method. I like polycrlic too by my favorite new top coat is the General Finishes. Thanks again!
I started chalk painting a few years ago and still love it, however, through trial and error I found that I never seal a heavy use table with wax. I now use wax only on parts of the piece that has little use. Like legs or the sides. I use a non whitening poly on heavy use surfaces. I find making my own chalk paint a lot cheaper than buying AS and I have any color made.
Thank you for your tips. I use General Finishes Top Coat. I really like it. Times I use a true polyurethane, I like the satin Minwax. I usually use Kilz 2 and minwax polycrylic. I do use glazes. Great to know. Thank you so much Kerry! Do you paint mostly furniture or cabinets? I have done both. Mostly furniture but I have done my cabinets more times than I like to admit. Wipes up clean. And grandkids bumping their toys into them. My dining table takes the same beating..
Kilz has come out with a chalk paint. I wonder if it just might be the same formula. I do find if you want to distress with the kilz primer its difficult because it adheres so well. This is very interesting to me since I just started a chalk painting project for the first time.
Almost 40 years ago I redid 2 old dressers with the regular process of sanding, primin, painting, and antiquing and it was so much easier and cheaper and so much less work. And it lasted forever! I feel your pain. When you go to sand it, see how easy the chalk paint is coming off. So sorry for your experience. That has been mine too with chalk paint and yes, Purdy brushes are fabulous!
I even sanded the wax and sprayed a degreaser spray on it and sanded again , the latex will peel off. Laurie, part of the beauty of the chalk paint is the texture. You can sand it with a fine grit paper, like , and you will find the brush strokes gone.
Then wax it using a lint-free cloth. Make sure you are using a soft paste-wax, not a liquid. The soft past-wax I use Annie Sloane goes on easily and a little goes a long way.
I have done my kitchen, all three bathroom vanities, multiple dressers, and a cabinet. You will need to sand it to use latex, and most likely a primer. But, I am willing to bet that if you sand it and rewax it, you will be pleased.
It is frustrating, I know, so sometimes we need to just step away and come back to it with new energy! I hope it comes out well! I have been painting furniture for 15 years for my Shabby Chic business. FYI however, I found that Rustoleum makes a chalk paint that it half the price of Annie Sloan and application is like a dream. It only comes in white, gray and black, however so if you want another color Benjamin Moore is my go to paint for sure.
And they make a wonderful Stay Clear top coat that I have used for years. No yellowing. Metal with any erosion at all must be primed before using chalk paint or you will get rust colored bleed-through. Certain woods, such as cherry and mahogany, must be primed or you will get pink bleed-through with chalk paint. So I bought Zimmer water-based primer and chalk painted some more pieces since I had two quarts of AS chalk paint left.
I think it all depends on the end result you are looking for. I personally prefer ASCP and I have tried latex as well as other brands of CP due to how durable it is and how little is needed to cover an item.
It is nice to have options but if you go to some of the Pinterest sites and look at the incredibly artsy pieces of furniture, they are created with the chalk paint. I agree with you. Thanks for stopping by Holly! I, too, have tried many methods. When using chalk, I always make my own with a latex flat paint and plaster of Paris.
If I am not looking for an antique or aged look, then I prefer to not use clear wax, but go with a clear coat option. Just wondering if you ever tried Black Dog Salvage paints? I had a whole bunch of pieces to redo and the paints were on sale at Woodcraft so I invested in a few.
The first piece I redid was a large old dresser. I did sand and clean significantly as it was in the attic for years. I used a brush on 2 coats then one coat of their top coat. It turned out very nice. I am now doing a bunch of chairs and other pieces. This time I am using a spray gun critter spray gun for the paint and top coat. Will have to compare to good old latex!
I have an even easier, less expensive, invisible flat top coat: Paint base. Pick up some of the untinted, darkest think black or navy paint base. BM is a 4 or 5 for example. Paint it on. Be horrified! Because it paints on white. Once it dries, though, good luck finding where you left off.
It even glues down chips without that gummy -urethane look. I just finished veneering maple cabinet doors with white oak. I absolutely love the raw wood look, but in a kitchen? Gotta seal it. I used the exterior paint base again, smoothing the grain between 2 coats. Hi, r u saying dark navy or black paint base to use as a topcoat? Goes on white, however, but dries clear? Just want to make sure I understand before buying some. Hey Christine, Sometimes the top coat can go on a little cloudy but then dries clear.
Let me know if you are asking something else. Thank you so much! I know Annie Sloan is the holy grail of chalk paint, but I found a recipe on Pinterest to make my own and it worked very well for a fraction of the cost I used Behr paint! I think it can be fun, but like anything else, in moderation. At heart, I prefer stained wood to painted wood. Your painted pieces are beautiful though and I love your blog!! I too have had it with chalk paint, but I have turned to General Finishes pre-mixed milk paint for a beautiful finish that can be used indoors and out.
They have glazes and varnishes that you can add. They also have a chalk paint line. The colors are heavily pigmented and they have a wonderful flat varnish.
I decided to sand despite being told it was not needed. The instructions state only one coat is needed. And I will still have to add a protective coat or two. My advice is to try chalk paint on a very small project first.
I know that can be extremely frustrating. How is the project going now? I think your advice is right-on. After the 1st coat all you could see was brush marks. So I tried lightly sanding the 1st coat. Then on to coat no. I let it set overnight with the hopes of polyurethane get it the next day.
However, to my surprise the oak grazing now showed through he 2 coats. Next day there was the oak grains showing through. At this point it is 4 days into this easy no primer, no sanding approach.
So day no. Well lesson learned. Will use latex the next time. Unfortunately, sanding is always necessary. Thank you for stopping by and let me know if I can help any way on this project or others. Feel your pain. I realized it early on so did not do too much damage. I had to repaint the latex. Thanks for this post. Hi I agree with you. But I would lovE your advie. I have an old roll top desk that I want to paint, any tips? I read a Pinterest post that claimed that the fabric felt like soft leather after painting and waxing it with annie sloane products.
Have you heard anything about the differences on fabric? I was over shabby chic before it ever started! And I absolutely agree with you on the chalk paint. Thank goodness all things go thru trends and this one seems to be waning. Thank you. I thought there was something inherently wrong with me not liking Chalk Paint and the distressed look. I can now paint my cabinets in bliss…. I paint with satin finish and used Minwax paste wax on my smaller pieces and Aqua Spar polyurethane in antique flat for a finish coat on my larger pieces of furniture.
Smaller pieces are boxes and smaller wooden pieces. The AquaSpar is a water based product and will not yellow white painted pieces. Hope that helps.
And you are so right about the expense. I did not know about the pink coming through. That would make me cry. A well finished piece of furniture is a tactile thing also. The very thought puts my teeth on edge. Like cleaning an old fashioned chalk board with your bare hands! Ok, I guess the wax makes it all better? Ah yes, to each her own! I like them all. I call it a bicep workout! Yet I love the feel.
You know what I love about having distressed furniture in my house? It never matters if you bump into or hit something when you are vacuuming, etc, lol. However, after I paint something, it is incredibly hard for me to distress it!!!!
IF I can get up the courage to do it. And sometimes I paint things and just leave as is, in their perfectly painted state. Water based polyurethane will not yellow white paint. Recommend AquaSpar poly in antique flat finish. Must order online from Amazon or order through Lowes or Home Depot. Hard to find a store that stocks it. I first bought a can of chalk paint to try out on little projects like picture frames because I was attracted to the claim that it covers every type of surface — glass, cheap plastic, wood, etc.
After a few experiments I then tried it on an old plain wooden dresser and was happy with the results. Thanks for your perspective! I am a latex paint girl for sure but wanted to try the chalk paint on a piece.
The idea of saving time on the prep time attracted me but I found the finish time with waxing to be very time consuming, messy and did not deliver the finish I like to see. Living in a cold weather state I could not work in the garage so I ended up painting smaller pieces in my kitchen. I used chalk paint because it was more convenient than freezing in the garage sanding first. I did experiment using Minwax paste wax and using polyurethane over chalk paint.
Both worked well and were easier to work with than AS wax. You have a wonderful way of explaining things when teaching and giving information in general. I will now think of prep work with a different attitude. Except a few weeks from now, we have to repaint our house. I will probably still look down the length after scraping a while and cry. Thank you for your explanation about not using chalk paint. I have tried it because of the rave reviews and I was sorely disappointed in the results.
I thought it was just my lack of skill in using that particular type of paint. BTW I love all your projects. I had thought I was skilled at decorating and woodworking until I started reading your blog….. You made my day! You have a good sense of humor. Dragging behind a truck….. If someone has alrready asked you this already, I apologize for repeating the question.
I was wondering if you usually put a polyurethane or something else over your latex paint to seal it and to keep the paint from scratching off? I usually use oil based paint because my experience with latex is that it scratches off easily. But oil based paint has a strong odor and is a little harder to work with plus the clean up is a pain. I am not the best prepper though, so that could be why the latex scratches off too. I usually just give a quick sanding and start painting.
And I agree, anymore I see that this look is merely a short cut way to not finish a wood project properly. Thanks for the great post. Very interesting. I have not attempted to use chalk paint yet but do have some on hand for when I do. Latex paint you have so many more colors to choose from too. I am glad I finally have someone who agrees with me! What works for some people, may not work well for others. I would still prep the door before painting as I want it as smooth as possible.
Did I miss something? I had heard of chalk paint on some of the blogs. Saw the pictures, but that is always hard to tell. I happened to find some chalk painted pieces at an antique store in the area. I was impressed with the beautiful finish it had.
I then looked at the cans of paint, the beautiful colors, the brushes, the classes, the wax, the whole ball of wax. But, I am happy it is out there and you never know there may be a treasure I may find that I just might want to use it on. I make halkpaint with non-sanded grout. Just use 1 cup paint and 1 Tablespoon of Plaster of Paris. I had a red shelf that I wanted to use this on and it worked fine, but it was sanded well first and then I did two coats.
I want used look, not trashy look! Very cheap to make your own chalk paint, tho, and yes I did wax it, because it is in my kitchen and I wanted the finish to be washable! I liked the way it turned out, but it is time consuming.
The three coats of enamel took just one afternoon. The outside is weathered pallet wood, so it is rustic looking, but the shelves will hold food in glass jars, so they are painted. All the acrylic paint was much fasted drying! Enjoyed reading your post. I happen to be a huge lover of chalk paint, it is an investment I agree. But it is worth it to me. I painted furniture to save for a trip to see my first grandbaby in Guam and to see my daughter and son in law for the first time in two years.
I worked my butt off with the help of my sister! So maybe I have an emotional connection. This is the fun part of having friends, different ideas and passions! My sister swears by chalk paint but I, as you, fail to see how it is so much better than regular paint. My sister DOES love brand names, but not me. We tried making our own chalkpaint which was an even bigger disaster. Give me a can of spray paint spray paint is a lot more durable or latex paint which is a lot thicker and covers better than chalk paint.
I think you summed it up very well. Thanks for this assessment. I have used chalk paint and agree that the durability is not there, even with a post waxing. What is really annoying me is that everyone thinks a piece has to be painted. I was looking for a piece for my bathroom to turn into a vanity and almost every single piece I looked at was Annie Sloaned!!!
And finally,we live in America, and the absolute beauty of that is that everyone has the freedom of self expression. Very interesting about the chalk paint. I too enjoy the prep of sanding, priming, sanding painting, sanding painting…. Some pieces I will do a few coats of satin polyurethane to protect the paint from staining. Thanks for how kindly you express your taste.
We LOVE the distressed look but realize not everyone does. We do! Good article. I also do not like it distressed. I have refused to paint my nice, expensive furniture. A few cheap pieces, yes. I think when everyone gets all their furniture painted, then the style will become natural wood again! What is everyone going to then? I guess instead of chalk paint, there will be a run on wood stripper!
I am afraid this is just a fad that is coming to an end soon. Love your post. I had to shellac a lot. And I had to wax. Good post. They are all cute little tables that fit the space I purchased them for. That said- I have 3 naked bar stools hey that sounds like a band and a gorgeous unfinished 3 cubbie bench in my mudroom I cant decide on what to use. I also love to paint with latex paint, and have been a bit nervous to use chalk paint. Your post clarified a lot of questions I had about it too, so thanks for that!
Because of the wax you have to strip it. I could kick myself for using that stuff. Love your blog! Thanks so much for posting this!
With all the paint I use on my pieces I would constantly be having it shipped in because of the the small sized cans and would would have to charge tree times as much because of the huge price! I can achieve much the same look with latex paint — if I want a more flat look I might add a chalk powder — but regardless of either — any of them distress well with a sander if that is the look you want!
Not realizing that Latex has a bazillion more options. Love this article! You have said everything I think and feel about chalk painted over distressed furniture. Not to my taste either. But to each their own. Thanks for such great information. Love your down-to-earth explanations! Thank you for sharing much of what I also think about chalk paint, Kristi.
I have used chalk paint, latex paint, and my favorite- milk paint. Great piece! Thanks for the insight. Thanks for that. But just had to this time. I painted my kitchen cabinets with Annie Sloans chalk paint. I cleaned them but did not sand or any other prep. I then did a light distressing and finished by waxing them. They are number one stunning!!! I have not has to reapply wax. Or any other horrible thing. I also am an interior designer and professional faux finisher.
Chalk paint along with latex and oil. Is a great product. Just depends on personal preference and the job at hand. She addressed and answered her followers who asked why she does not use it. I have used Chalk paint and I like it for some of the reasons mentioned. I did not buy the expensive brushes and found that it covers a lot.
I also like latex. Personally, I like having some distressed items too. Latex paint is tried and true for me and I can achieve a crisp clean finish or distress the heck outa it if I so choose.
I do like distressed stuff…. It depends on the piece. I love several different styles of furniture, so I use several different types of paint. Smooth, clean finishes look good on certain pieces, and on others, it makes them look cheap and plastic.
I also primarily use latex. Since I sell my refinished furniture, regardless of the type of paint, the piece is always sealed with multiple coats of some kind of sealant wax, poly, oil. Although it may not require sealing, like chalk paint, latex paint alone is not tough enough to stand up to serious wear and tear. Elisha, I know you were teasing with your comment! Kristi, I appreciate this post so much. I like how you explained your preference for prep associated with types of paint other than chalk paint.
The thing that I keep reading over and over from different bloggers is the rather steep learning curve with the finishing wax used over chalk paint, and how much time and effort it takes to get it applied and buffed out correctly. She loved the end result; it was far too rustic for my tastes!
I do have some ASCP paint samples to test out on small pieces but have never used it, I should probably give it a go to see how I like it. I still am rather partial to my latex paint, though! Thanks for writing about this.
Now I know why. Your comments on distressed furniture were terrific! And I believe a Purdy brush can last forever with the right care, too! Glad I read your story. Take care. Thanks for your point of view. Let me start by saying that I am not at all offended by your article.
Different strokes for different folks. It costs very little when you make it yourself. It has been my experience that chalk paint holds up very well and should only take one coat. I do not sand or prep other than making sure my furniture is clean before painting. Waxing is very simple and takes no time at all. I would not spend a lot of money on brand name chalk paint when I can make my own.
There are recipes on line for those who would like to try at least one piece. I do want to say that I follow you and I really enjoy your blog. I get great pleasure out of seeing your projects. Keep up the great work. When I read all these blogs full of distressed furniture the first thing that pops into my mind is somebody is going to be doing a lot of refinishing or repainting when the distressed age is a thing of the past.
Plus I would never pay those prices, so like you, I think I will stick with my prep work and latex paint. Thanks for your insight and as always I love your blog! I was introduced to chalk paint, not long ago, and I am very excited about its unique finish.
The price was way too much for me, so I opted for a chalk additive which can be added to any latex paint. Depending on the project, I vary between the chalk paint and latex. Just an option for someone who likes both types of paint:. Great, Great, information! I feel the very same as you! This post is hilarious! Dragged behind a truck! The home made version turned out kind of gritty. I always like to sand before painting and in between coats, for a nice smooth finish.
It has almost no smell, comes in different sheens, and is half the price of ASCP. Your sense of humor and witty writing style always cracks me up — I hope you keep blogging for a long time — this is a fun blog! Thank you for this article. I cannot say I will never try CP, as I may just to get a feel for it. I have some beautiful family antiques that provide incredible richness, warmth and luster that paint of any kind will not touch.
But I do want to add a pop of color here and there. Depending on the item and use will determine the finish. Your pieces are beautiful and I am glad not totally distressed…love some metallic highlights! Thanks again, Kristi! Thank you for your thoughtful information about chalk paint. Your blog has been very helpful.
I look forward to more information on these projects. My to-do list is long, but I am slowly tackling things as I gather experience. I appreciate your candor. Thank you for the post. I hope for everyone getting ready to paint furniture reads this. I done a lot of reading about chalk paint before making a decision.
Money made the choice for me. And to really save money, most of my paints are bought from the mis-mixed section of the stores. My living room is full of pieces that were simply painted using either sample size paints or a paint color no one wanted.
Happy Painting To All! Kristi, I do use chalk paint and I was certainly not in the least bit offended by your post why should I be? Firstly, the biggest reason I use chalk paint and milk paint is that they are less chemical-y and vapor-y than latex and oil. Also, these products are easy to clean up with just soap and water. So I use chalk paint, milk paint, and carefully chosen waxes to minimize my exposure to solvents. A quart costs slightly more than a gallon of cheap latex, slightly less than a gallon of better latex.
I find that the price is justified by several things: the coverage of the paint when used appropriately it will go a long way — the exception to this is white shades , the ease of the painting fewer drips and brush marks , and the finish which I DO like.
But I do love the aged look that the combination of soft color and soft texture give, I love the buttery softness of a waxed piece, and I love the depth of color. I do not love the harsher tones of latex paint; pale or bright, it lacks depth to my eyes. Oil is better. But see fumes, above, and also oil is a pain to work with. Of course you have to prep a damaged finish.
Of course. For instance, latex and waxed chalk paint will both melt in a moving truck! But the latex piece has to be totally re-done, whereas the chalk painted piece just has to be waxed again.
Neither finish responds well to hot teapots. And now I have a question: have you tried the Benjamin Moore Advance paint, that is supposed to be for cabinets and furniture? I might need to give it a try! I just tried the Ben Moore Advance paint on my kitchen cabinets he hardest job I ever tackled I sanded, primer with what they told me to use…had to wait HOURs before applying Advance mineral oil based pant like the next day and then had to wait 16 hours before the 2nd coat of advance and sanded in between.
The point of the mineral oil is to slow the drying process down so the paint has more time to level out. The finish is very nice and HARD. I also painted over the hinges and then lightly sanded them with a sanding sponge to remove some of the paint and they look AWESOM!!!!!! The cookie is used to store information of how visitors use a website and helps in creating an analytics report of how the website is doing.
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