They had a new version of muffled jet ski with 4-stroke engine and actually gave us a wide pass. Yet, there is little worse, or more dangerous, than cooking breakfast below, hot coffee and tea in hand, and being thrown across the galley by a boat in a hurry. But noise comes in many shapes and sizes. A party of revelers who stay active well into the night can be as annoying as any jet ski; unless of course you are part of the party.
So where is the happy medium? Your choice. You wake up one morning hearing a little dog barking incessantly. You want to sleep in but there is not a visible sign of action onboard. Do you get in your dinghy and take the doggone dog out for a walk? What to do? This is one of those things that may make you move on. If you've got a generator, remember that noise carries great distances over water. Respect the fact that most cruisers appreciate tranquility. Many people do not realize that a generator can be very disturbing to fellow cruisers who do not have such mechanical gear on board.
Sailors in small vessels have little aboard to generate noise. Anchoring a power vessel that has constant refrigeration or air conditioning that generates incessant noise of an engine and water running is inconsiderate.
Try to anchor near other similar vessels that will not notice this type of disturbance to which you are accustomed. There is nothing wrong with letting people know that something they are doing is bothering you.
We usually stand there and watch as new people enter an anchorage. If they come too close to our vessel, we will often either hail them on the radio or indicate to them from the deck where our anchor was dropped so they know not to park there. Similarly, if boats come through the anchorage creating a wake, we will ask them to slow down and point out their wake.
Probably about half the time, especially in the case of inflatable dinghies returning from shore leave, they slow down having been unaware of the havoc behind them. But if you have an excessively smoky meal to cook or fish on the grill, being upwind of a boatload of vegetarians may be cause for strong sentiments. Sharing is not always a good thing, especially when you are upwind of other vessels and cooking something particularly odiferous. The proverbial nemesis of calm and quiet and getting away from it all is the cell phone.
There was a story I remember hearing about a cell phone incident in an anchorage. A vessel was enjoying dusk in a quiet anchorage when the ringing of a cell phone broke right through the magic. The cell phone appeared to be on deck of a nearby boat, whose owners had gone ashore without it. After an endless number of rings, it stopped. Ah, silence. Moments later, it started again. Then from a boat anchored nearby, a dinghy crossed surreptitiously to the offending vessel. Having watched the owners go ashore and having endured several hours of torture, they decided to take action before something or someone snapped.
As the teller watched, with binoculars of course, the mysterious dinghy skipper, climbed onboard, removed the battery and returned both to the safety of the cockpit. Our hero. Any wake is a serious sleep deterrent at best and a hazard in the galley and elsewhere at worst.
Just think of no wake as a zone where people are sleeping and do not want to be awoken. This is a serious offense in many anchorages, and remember that in many places, the harbormaster can pull you over and give you a citation that will cost you money.
So much for a joy ride! So in this case, a matter of etiquette can also be a matter of the law if the behavior crosses the line of common sense. This magayacht had all the toys, the lights the music, a helicopter, and generators Light can be a major potential annoyance at best, and a serious hazard at worst.
There are the boats lit up like Christmas trees with confusing configurations of lights that conflict with the anchor light required by law. Some people have their steaming lights, their deck lights, their underwater lights, and their landing lights on all at the same time creating light pollution in an otherwise secluded spot.
All those lights require the generator to run all night long, which creates noise population to go right along with the lights. Most people looks for privacy when they anchor. Aside from disturbing their privacy and night vision, you may be lighting up more than you want to see. You will blind them with the light, and if they are in motion as you are searching for the right spot, they will be incapable of maneuvering safely and may not see you coming after all.
A word on civilized communication during maneuvers. So who does not have an anchoring communications etiquette story? Like the one about the boat that enters a nearly empty harbor and drops anchor pretty close to on top of yours? Anything wrong with the rest of the harbor?
Be aware when anchoring especially during the early evening hours , that almost everyone else in the anchorage will be observing you as discreetly as possible, of course. It's just the way it is. You'll do it too. Just remember that it's not the anchoring, or the need to re-anchor, which separates the beginners from the experts - it's the amount of yelling and chaos that breaks out between the person handling the anchor, and the person maneuvering the boat.
Develop a set of hand signals to communicate with one another well in advance. When you have someone on the bow working the anchor we prefer the strong male in that department even though we now have a windlass and we both have to know how to do it and the other person is aft at the helm, it may be difficult to be heard above the roar of the engine.
We will usually use simple hand signals to let each other know of obstructions, intentions and speed or course changes, but we also use walkie-talkies handheld FRS radios that are available relatively inexpensively at most sporting goods stores. These radios are especially useful when the wind is really blowing and your words are scattered from the bow before they have a chance to leave your tongue. We also use them to communicate from below decks to topside, like on night watch when we need to rouse a sleeping mate for a sail change or to communicate between the person on radar watch at the navigation station and the helmsman.
Know in advance that there will be times when you and your target meet in binocular unison. Who looks away first and how you handle the intrusion will be most revealing to you about your own personality traits. And of course recognize that all eyes will be on you at some point in time.
And if you have a pretty boat, expect the cameras too. There is nothing more disconcerting than an idyllic setting marred by boaters who inconsiderately and against the law, refused to use a holding tank and pumpout stations. It's recommended that you know the different types of moorings on NSW waterways.
You can identify a mooring type by the colour of its buoy:. Moorings are often identified on local maps or charts, or see the private mooring map. You must have a licence or be authorised to use private, commercial or emergency moorings. For more information or to apply for a licence, see moorings. If your mooring is over a seagrass bed, it's recommended that you use a seagrass-friendly mooring to protect marine life.
Safe anchorages are places where you can anchor or moor your vessel temporarily, protected from wind, waves and currents. Be aware that some anchorages are only safe in certain wind or swell directions. Check maps and signage for where to anchor safely, and for designated non-anchoring areas. Be aware that some areas — such as those with seagrasses — may not have signs.
Look out for 'Submarine Cable' signs. These underwater cables carry electrical power or telecommunication signals. If your anchor becomes snagged in a cable, do not pull it out. Cut the anchor line as close as possible to the anchor. Before you go on the water, make sure you have the right size and type of anchor for your vessel and the sea bed.
Any vessel occupation outside of these parameters requires a mooring licence or some other lawful occupation agreement. In accordance with Ports and Maritime Administration Act 5 — 85B - Use of moorings by vessels, a person must not cause a vessel to occupy a mooring in any navigable waters except in accordance with a mooring licence issued by the Authority in accordance with the regulations.
Home Topics Using waterways Waterways and designated areas Mooring and anchoring. Mooring and anchoring on NSW waterways Listen. On this page. Places to secure your vessel Moorings and anchors are used to secure a vessel in a particular location. Moorings Some waterways have specific mooring areas. You must: be aware of mooring area locations — take extra care at night as moored vessels may not be lit keep a proper lookout for people in the water, small dinghies and trailing ropes keep a minimum distance — when travelling at 6 knots or more in a powered vessel you must keep a minimum of 30m from any moored vessel.
Anchors are rated by "holding power"--which is the ability of an anchor to hold a given weight. Keep in mind that a 10, pound boat may only require an anchor with a holding power of a few hundred pounds on a calm day, but may need 1, pounds of holding power or more on a stormy day.
There are several types of anchors and you should choose a style based on the bottom characteristics in the areas you will anchor most often. Then, choose a size based on the size and weight of your boat. Lightweight type anchor with two long pivoting "flukes"; designed to reduce clogging with mud and grass; range from 2. When dropped, flukes dig the anchor into the bottom and the anchor buries itself and part of the anchor line.
Commonly used on small recreational boats, as they are relatively light weight for the amount of holding power they provide, especially in comparison to other anchors. Best in hard sand or mud, where flukes can easily dig into the bottom. Not recommended for very soft or loose mud, which can ball up around the flukes; or on rocky bottoms where the flukes cannot penetrate. Also not recommended for grassy bottoms, which the flukes tend to slip off. A more traditional style anchor with arks, flukes and stock.
Good in heavy grass, weeds, rocky bottoms or hard sand where one arm can penetrate a crevice. Not good in mud or loose sand, where flukes can't dig in. Functions differently than previous anchors as it is not a burying anchor; one arm digs into bottom and one lies exposed.
Generally only used by very large ships, as it relies on weight for most of the holding power; not really suitable for recreational use other than for a lunch hook. Very inexpensive, but not much holding power. Some models are made of bent re-bar, others are made of galvanized metal and have folding flukes. Good for recovering items on the bottom, or for wreck reef anchoring.
Commonly used on very small boats such as canoes or jon boats. The plow styles' good holding power over a wide variety of bottom types makes it a top choice of cruising boaters.
Has either a fixed Delta style or a pivoting CQR shank. When dropped in the water, a plow lands on its side, then when pulled, buries itself. Its shape allows it to reset fairly easily should the wind or tide shift the boat position. Great in sand and on rocky bottoms, weeds and grass. Does not do well in soft bottoms. Generally made of galvanized metal, though they are available in stainless steel.
Unique shape of the claw allows a degree turn without breaking out. Has similar performance to plow anchors,at a lower weight. Sets just like a plow, but curved flukes make it easier for a claw to right itself no matter how it lands on the bottom, or how much the boat gets swung around.
Mushroom anchors get their name from, as you might imagine, their rounded, mushroom shape. Mushroom anchors are used extensively for moorings, and can weigh several thousand pounds for this use.
The shape works best in soft bottoms, where it can create a suction that can be difficult to break. Decent for very small boats to use as a lunch hook, but not practical for larger boats. Both Buoys and Beacons may have lights attached, and may have a sound making device such as a gong, bell or horn. Both Buoys and Beacons may be called "marks". Depending upon the size and type of your boat, and where you anchor--your choices for an anchor line are either an all-rope anchor rode, a combination of rope and chain, or all chain.
Three-strand line can absorb shock and the constant tugging associated with anchoring much better than braided line or chain alone. Chain may also be used, especially in anchorages that are primarily rock or coral, which may cut a nylon line. A length of chain should be used between the anchor and a longer length of line. The chain will add weight to set your anchor without making it too heavy to lift manually, while serving to exert a horizontal pull on the anchor to set it. Nylon Three-Strand line is the leading choice for use as an anchoring line.
Lines generally come in a "soft" or "medium" lie. Soft lines are generally softer to the touch, and loosely woven. These aren't as good as medium or hard lines for anchoring, as they are more prone to unraveling and chafing.
Tightly wrapped lines are the best choice for anchoring.
0コメント